New England Lighthouses: A Virtual Guide

Monomoy Point Light

Near Chatham, Massachusetts

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History

Monomoy was once a peninsula extending southward from Chatham at the elbow of Cape Cod's bending arm. It is now two islands, North Monomoy and South Monomoy. For a thousand years or more before the arrival of Europeans, Monomoy was used by the Monomoiyicks tribe as a summer base for shellfishing and hunting.

The area was long a graveyard for vessels. South of Monomoy is Pollock Rip, a region of unusually strong tidal currents. A lightship was stationed at Pollock Rip for many years. It was the treacherous shoals and currents near Monomoy that caused the Pilgrims to enter Cape Cod Bay and settle at Plymouth instead of continuing south to Virginia.

old photo of lighthouse
The 1849 lighthouse in the late 1800s. U.S. Coast Guard photo.

A settlement grew up at Monomoy in the early 19th century, centered around the fishing industry. The community, which became known as Whitewash Village, reached its apex around 1850. As traffic in the area increased a lighthouse became a necessity.

Cape Cod's fifth lighthouse was built for $3,000 in 1823 at Monomoy Point, also called Sandy Point, eight miles from Chatham near the southern end of the peninsula. Like many early lighthouses in the area, it was a Cape Cod style light with a wooden tower and iron lantern room on the roof of a brick keeper's house. The lantern held eight lamps with 13-inch reflectors.

Engineer I.W.P. Lewis visited in 1842 and called Monomoy "one of the most important locations on the coast of the United States. Thousands of vessels pass here annually, amid the numerous and very dangerous shoals that obstruct the navigation." Keeper Solomon Doane complained that the roof leaked where it joined the tower, and that the "lantern has been so much racked by storms that it shakes so as to break the glass continually... The lantern leaks very badly in all wet weather, and is entirely out of repair." Lewis recommended that the whole establishment be rebuilt.

The present cast-iron brick-lined tower was built in 1849, placing among the earliest cast-iron lighthouses in America (Boston's Long Island Head and Vermont's Juniper Island were among the earlier ones). An 1850 inspection reported:

This is a new establishment altogether -- an iron light-house, a wooden dwelling, and a new fashionable apparatus. The workmanship to the light-house, I presume, is good, but it is neither large enough, nor high enough, nor stiff enough; for I can take hold with one hand of any part of the lantern and shake it to such a degree as to break the tube glasses on the lamps.

 

The lighthouse received a fourth-order Fresnel lens in the mid-1850s.

Monomoy was an extremely isolated station, but the keepers and families had plenty to eat, with fish, lobster, clams and waterfowl all in abundant supply. In later years one resourceful keeper converted his Model T Ford into an early dune buggy, making the trip by land to Chatham much faster.

old photo of lighthouse
From the collection of Edward Rowe Snow, courtesy of Dorothy Bicknell

dune buggy
An early dune buggy used by keepers to get from Monomoy to Chatham
From the collection of Edward Rowe Snow, courtesy of Dorothy Bicknell

In 1872, the Lighthouse Board recommended that Monomoy be upgraded to a second order light, saying:

...nearly all vessels (both steamers and sailing) plying between New York and the eastern ports pass this point, and have no other guide than the lightships, which cannot be seen a sufficient distance, it is considered a matter of the greatest importance that this light should be replaced by one of sufficient power to guide vessels safely through this intricate passage...

Despite this plea, the light was not upgraded. The lighthouse was painted red in 1882, making it more visible by day. In 1892, iron trusses were added to the tower to prevent vibration.

James P. Smith, a native of Copenhagen, became keeper in 1899. His wife died early in his stay at Monomoy, but Keeper Smith had three daughters who assisted him in his duties. The oldest daughter, Annie, acted as housekeeper and tended the light when her father was away. In 1904 a reporter asked the Smith sisters if life at the lighthouse was lonely. Annie replied, "Oh, no! We don't have time to be lonesome. There is always something to do, with the housekeeping and the light."

In February 1902, Keeper Smith and his daughters recovered the body of a Nova Scotia fisherman from the wrecked vessel Elsie M. Smith. The man's clothes had filled with sand, and Emma Smith said that he must have weighed 300 pounds. It took Keeper Smith and daughters Annie and Emma to pull the body from the surf.

With the opening of the Cape Cod Canal in 1914 and an increase in the power of Chatham Light, Monomoy Light was considered expendable. The light was discontinued in 1923 and the property passed into private hands.

One of the private owners was George Bearse, an auto dealer. When he came to visit the property he was surprised to find that Navy planes had been using it for machine-gunning target practice. One bullet had come through a wall of the keeper's house and knocked out a rung on a rocking chair; another had lodged itself in a four by four beam.

In 1964, the Massachusetts Audubon Society restored the lighthouse and keeper's house. In 1988 Massachusetts Senator Edward M. Kennedy helped secure a federal grant for further refurbishing, a project initiated by the Lighthouse Preservation Society.

lighthouse and keeper's house
Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division, Historic American Buildings Survey or Historic American Engineering Record, Reproduction Number MA-62-1

The blizzard of February 6-7, 1978, cut Monomoy into two islands, North and South Monomoy. Today both islands are managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. South Monomoy is a birdwatcher's mecca, with over 300 species spotted in recent years. Gray seals, rare in New England, have been breeding on South Monomoy.

The Cape Cod Musuem of Natural History has offered hikes to the lighthouse and overnight stays in the past, but the programs have been discontinued. Presently, the best way to visit is via the Monomoy Island Ferry. A rather strenuous walk is necessary to reach the lighthouse.

In November 2009, it was announced that $1.5 million in 2009 American Recovery and Reinvestment Act funds would be used to restore the lighthouse and keeper's house. The contract is expected to go out for bid in the early part of 2010.

You can read much more about this lighthouse in the book The Lighthouses of Massachusetts by Jeremy D'Entremont.

Last updated 11/19/09

© Jeremy D'Entremont. Do not reproduce any part of this website without permission of the author.


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