Isle Haute, as Champlain well named it, is considered the
eastern limit of Penobscot Bay. . . . The shores rise up sharply
from the water, like the tip of a half-submerged mountain. .
. . The inhabitants eke out a poor living by raising a few sheep,
fishing a little, and farming a little, and by gathering blueberries,
which grow plentifully on most of these islands. The island catches
the eye from all outer approaches to this bay. -- Samuel Adams Drake, The Pine Tree Coast,
1891.
If I could give you three things, I would give
you these:
Song and laughter and a wooden home, in the shining sea.
When you see old Isle au Haut, rising in the dawn,
You will play in yellow fields, in the morning sun.
-- Isle au Haut Lullaby (Hay Ledge Song), by
Gordon Bok
The island called Isle au Haut
got its name from explorer Samuel de Champlain, who called it
"Isle Haute," or "High Island," and rightfully
so -- the highest elevation is 556 feet. There was once a population
of about 800 people on the island, including two dozen shipmasters.
Today there are only about 50 year-round residents, with more
in summer. Most houses still don't have electricity, and Isle
au Haut was the nation's last community to stop using crank-style
telephones. |
U.S. Coast Guard |
A report to Congress in 1906 stated:
Lower East Penobscot Bay and the water seaward for a distance
of about 10 miles outside of Saddleback Ledge light-house are
claimed by fishermen to be exceedingly good fishing grounds...
Isle au Haut Harbor is the best harbor covenient to these fishing
grounds, and is so convenient in distance and has such good holding
ground and is so well sheltered, especially from all the worst
winds, northeasterly and easterly, from which shelter is most
needed, it is highly valued and much frequented by fishermen.
A light-station with a fog-bell, struck by machinery, would guide
fishermen into this harbor when they could not find it without
such aid.
 | Isle au Haut Light, established at Robinson Point in 1907
for $14,000, was the next-to-last last traditional style lighthouse built
in the state of Maine. The first keeper was Frank Holbrook, previously
stationed at Matinicus Rock. The lighthouse is a brick tower on a granite base, with a
total height of 40 feet. It's very similar to the lighthouses
built earlier at Ram Island and Marshall Point. The tower is
slightly offshore and is reached via a wooden walkway. A 2 1/2-story
wood keeper's house, an oil house, and a storage shed were also
built in 1907. |
- The original optic, a fifth-order Fresnel lens, is
now at the Maine Lighthouse Museum in Rockland.
|
- U.S. Coast Guard photo
|
Isle au Haut Light was automated in 1934, and the property
(except for the lighthouse tower) was subsequently purchased
by Charles E. Robinson, a resident of the island. Back in 1906,
Robinson had sold the land for the federal government for the
establishment of the light station. For the next 50 years, the
keeper's house served as a summer home for three generations
of the family. Among the family members who spent summers at
the house was Linda Greenlaw, who wrote about it in her book
The Lobster Chronicles.
In 1986, the property, except for the lighthouse, was purchased
by Jeff and Judi Burke. The Burkes converted the keeper's house
into a bed and breakfast inn called, appropriately enough, the
Keeper's House Inn. Gourmet meals were served by the Burkes,
and Judi published a cookbook of her favorite recipes. Even the
oil house was converted into a cozy guest room.
 |
- A room in the Keeper's House
-
- The Keeper's House Inn was the realization of a dream for the
Burkes. The setting, with thick pine woods opening up to the
sparkling ocean, is incomparable. Deer, osprey, eagles, and mink
abound.
-
- Jeff Burke wrote a book on the family's first ten years on
Isle au Haut, called An
Island Lighthouse Inn : A Chronicle. He explained
the lure of Isle au Haut: "We all need an 'island' somewhere."
|
Isle au Haut is reached by taking the mailboat/passenger ferry
out of Stonington. The lighthouse is a hike of a little under
a mile from the town landing. Maps of Isle au Haut can be obtained
in Stonington or at the Acadia National Park visitor center in
Bar Harbor. Much of Isle au Haut is part of Acadia National Park.
The light, now solar powered, continues to flash red with
a white sector as an active aid to navigation maintained by the
Coast Guard. Under the Maine Lights Program, the lighthouse was
turned over to the Town of Isle au Haut in April 1998. A complete
restoration of the lighthouse was finished in June 1999. $62,000
was raised for the overhaul by concerned residents of the island,
who formed the Isle au Haut Lighthouse Committee.
Workers from the Campbell Construction Company of Beverly,
Massachusetts, repaired a bulge in the exterior of the lighthouse
and removed a concrete shell that had been added to the tower's
base. The lantern railing, windows, and doors were replaced with
carefully crafted replicas of the originals, and the entire structure
was repainted. The lighthouse now looks much as it did when it
was built, and it is considered to be in good shape for its second
century. The keeper's house property is
for sale; click here for information.
Keepers: Francis Elmer Holbrook (1907-1922), Harry
Smith (1922-1933)
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