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Of the thousands of summer visitors
who flock to to beautiful Crane
Beach in Ipswich, Massachusetts, it's likely that few
have any inkling that a lighthouse once graced the beach's shifting
dunes. For just over a century, a succession of keepers and their
families kept watch at the station east of the mouth of the Ipswich
River.
The first English settlers, led by John Winthrop Jr., arrived
in Ipswich 1633, and fishing and shipbuilding soon prospered.
Today, Ipswich is said to have more seventeenth-century homes
than any town in America.
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- The range lights circa 1900
- From the collection of Edward Rowe
Snow, courtesy of Dorothy Bicknell
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Because of increasing maritime traffic in the early 1800s,
reliable aids to navigation in the vicinity became a necessity.
After a Congressional appropriation of $7,000 in 1837, the federal
government paid John Baker and Tristram Brown $10 for four acres
of land.
Two lighthouses were built on the stretch of sand now known
as Crane Beach, along with a brick, 1 1/2-story dwelling. The
29-foot brick towers -- 542 feet apart from each other on a nearly
east-west axis -- originally held 10 lamps and reflectors each
and exhibited fixed white lights.
There were complaints that they could not be distinguished
from the pair of fixed lights a few miles to the north on Plum
Island, so the western light was soon given a revolving mechanism.
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- The original rear range light. U.S.
Coast Guard photo
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- Thomas Smith Greenwood, first keeper
of the Ipswich Range Lights. Courtesy of Jim Danforth.
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The two lights served as a range for mariners coming through
the main channel toward the mouth of the Ipswich River.
The first keeper was Thomas Smith Greenwood, a native of Boston.
Greenwood had gone to sea as a young man and eventually became
the captain of clipper ships. He and his wife, Paulina Adams
(Thurlow), had eight children.
Greenwood also owned a large tract of land to the west of
the light station, originally given to him by his wife's family.
That land is now operated by the Trustees of Reservations as
the Greenwood Farm Reservation.
On December 23, the coast was being battered by the second
of what became known as the triple hurricanes of 1839. A Maine
schooner, the Deposit, ran aground close to the Ipswich
Range Lights. A neighbor informed Keeper Greenwood at dawn, and
he ran to the scene to find that the remaining people on the
vessel, including the captain's wife, were clinging to the rigging.
Two crew members had already died. The situation looked hopeless,
but it was the terrified screams of the captain's wife that prompted
Greenwood to make a desperate rescue attempt.
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The keeper instructed the neighbor, a Mr. Marshall, to hold
one end of a 200-foot line. Tying the other end around himself,
Greenwood swam through the powerful, icy waves and reached the
schooner. Marshall tied the other end of the line to a lifeboat,
which he then boarded and launched into the breakers. Greenwood
pulled the lifeboat, with Marshall in it, to the schooner.
Greenwood first tried to save Captain Cotterell, who was barely
alive. As the captain was being lowered into the lifeboat, a
great wave hit and the man was lost, along with the lifeboat.
The captain's wife, witnessing her husband's drowning, became
hysterical. Greenwood and Marshall convinced the woman to jump
from the rigging into their arms. Two of the other survivors
managed to reach shore by clinging to wreckage, while Greenwood,
Marshall and the captain's wife were carried safely to shore
by a great wave. Captain Cotterell and the sailors who died were
buried in Ipswich a few days later, with 16 sea captains serving
as pallbearers.
Joseph Dennis became keeper in 1841. In his landmark 1843
report, engineer I. W. P. Lewis was critical of the construction
methods used for the station. Keeper Dennis told Lewis that he
had hired a man to make an embankment around the dwelling "to
prevent the sand from blowing away, and also to keep the vegetables
from freezing in the cellar."
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Most importantly, Lewis pointed out that since the channel
had shifted, the range lights no longer provided proper guidance
into the Ipswich River. A mariner using the range lights "would
run ashore in the south spit of Plum Island."
Benjamin Ellsworth was appointed keeper in 1861. Ellsworth's
wife died soon after he took the position, and the keeper's daughter,
Susan, kept house at the station. Susan was the youngest of 12
children. Three sons of Keeper Ellsworth fought in the Civil
War, and all three returned safely. Benjamin Ellsworth would
remain at the station until his death in 1902.
Ellsworth was responsible for several rescues of shipwreck
victims during his long stay. In October 1863, he went to the
aid of the passengers of an English schooner that had run aground.
He later said he could "scarcely help from laughing"
when he reached the wreck, because the passengers thought he
was there to rob them. One of the passengers, a lawyer, had to
convince the others to go with Ellsworth, and they all survived.
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- Keeper Benjamin Ellsworth. Courtesy
of Edith Sturtevant.
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- One of the later range lights, known
as a "bug light"
- From the collection of Edward Rowe
Snow, courtesy of Dorothy Bicknell
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At some point before 1867, the front light was replaced by
a shanty-like affair known as the "bug light." In 1867,
the front light had to be moved 550 feet as the channel had greatly
shifted.
A great deal of repairs to the dwelling were carried out in
the 1867-69 period, and the 989-foot plank walkway from
the rear light to the dwelling was rebuilt.
By 1878, the rear tower was badly cracked. It was replaced
by a 45-foot, conical cast-iron tower in 1881, similar to several
built in New England during the 1870s and 1880s.
The changes in the contours of the beach have been dramatic.
According to Charles Wendell Townsend's 1913 book, Sand Dunes
and Salt Marshes, the corner of the lighthouse property was
originally about 82 feet from the high water mark; in 1911, the
same spot was 1,090 feet from the water. Townsend wrote that
when Keeper Ellsworth first took charge at the range lights he
could stand at the top of the main light, then close to the water's
edge, and converse with men in boats offshore.
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In the 1930s, one year just before Christmas, "Flying
Santa" Edward Rowe Snow was due to drop presents from a
plane for the keeper and his family. A group of children had
gathered in the house in anticipation of Santa's visit.
As the scheduled time approached, the keeper called to his
wife, "Has he come yet, dear?" At that very moment
there was a crash from upstairs.
The package dropped by Snow had made a direct hit and fell
through a skylight, landing in a hall.
"Yes, dear, we can start the party now," answered
the keeper's wife.
The last keeper was LeRoy Lane, who lived at the station with
his wife, Angie (Harris) Lane and their three children. The front
range light was discontinued for good in 1932. By 1938, the sand
was so high around the tower that maintenance personnel had to
enter through a window high up on the tower. It was decided that
a simple steel skeleton tower would be easier to maintain, and
there would be no worry if sand built up around its base.
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- The 1881 rear range tower. From
the collection of Edward Rowe Snow, courtesy of Dorothy Bicknell
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- The 1881 rear range tower. From
the collection of Edward Rowe Snow, courtesy of Dorothy Bicknell
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When the Coast Guard announced that it planned to remove the
lighthouse (the former rear range tower) in 1938, many letters
were sent in protest. Susan Ellsworh, the 90-year old daughter
of Keeper Benjamin Ellsworth, was one of the loudest voices of
opposition. The local complaints could not stop the wheels of
government, and the lighthouse was soon gone.
In 1939, the cast-iron lighthouse was floated by barge to
Edgartown in Martha's Vineyard to replace an earlier structure
that had been badly damaged in the hurricane of 1938. The lighthouse
in Ipswich was replaced by a skeleton tower.
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- The present Ipswich Light
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- This photo of the old lighthouse
at Ipswich won photographer Elmer Trevors second prize in a New
York Times photo contest in 1932. Courtesy of Dan Trevors.
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After some years of use by town organization and residents,
the keeper's house was destroyed by fire. Other than the decidedly
unpicturesque modern tower, there is no surviving reminder of
the Ipswich Light Station on its former site.
Crane Beach is one of the North Shore's most beautiful beaches,
but is not worth visiting as a lighthouse destination.
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- A closer view of the old Ipswich
Lighthouse by Elmer Trevors. Courtesy of Dan Trevors.
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- Photographer Elmer Percy Trevors
at Crane Beach in Ipswich, on the same day he took his prize-winning
lighthouse photo in 1932. Courtesy of Dan Trevors.
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Keepers: T. S. Greenwood (1838-1841, 1847-1849, and
1853-1861); Joseph Dennis (1841-1843); Ebenezer Pulsifer (1843-1847);
John I. Philbrook (1849-1853); Benjamin Ellsworth (1861-1902);
Thomas J. Creed (1910-1912); George A. Howard (1912-1916); A.
A. Howard (1916-1919); G. F. Woodman Jr. (1919-1922); C. D. Hill
(1922-1932); Leroy Lane (1930s).
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